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<http://www.emachineshop.com/>
I've used eMachineshop to cut 200 plastic bases I needed for a project.
Pretty happy with the results and pricing. I used their (proprietary)
CAD tool which then can price an order and place an order.
<http://www.mqast.com/>
Here's a company that specializes in low quantity runs and prototypes. I
don't know too much about them, but it seems like that fast quote system
might be nice.
Protype, Reston
[Category:Useful_Info](Category:Useful_Info "wikilink")

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# Type
<figure>
<img src="TAIG_CNC_Mill.JPG" title="TAIG_CNC_Mill.JPG" />
<figcaption>TAIG_CNC_Mill.JPG</figcaption>
</figure>
Our CNC mill is a [MicroMill DSLS
3000](http://www.microproto.com/MMDSLS.htm), a [Taig Manufactured CNC
Mill](http://www.taigtools.com/cmill.html).
This mill is generously on loan from the Smithsonian.
We are running [ArtSoft Mach3](http://www.machsupport.com/) for control
software.
# Terms
- Computer Numerical Control (CNC) - The ability to control a machine
using mathematical commands
- Computer Aided Design (CAD) - Software which generates a model which a
machine can translate into tooling commands for manufacturing.
- Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) - The actual process of production
from file to finished product.
- Tooling/tools - The bits used in a mill to actually
- Milling - The use of a spinning piece of metal to shape an object
through calculated removal of a media, normally via an X / Y / Z axis.
- Manual Data Input (MDI) - A method for doing manual milling with
precise control commands.
- Lathing - The use of a "static" piece of metal to shape an object
through calculated removal of a media which is in (usually) a circular
motion.
- [Mach3](http://www.machsupport.com/) - The software used to translate
G Code into electrical pulses which can be used by a mill.
# Getting Started
To initially get started with the CNC mill, it's helpful to have a basic
grasp of G Code. How better to get started with this than to begin
playing.
## Turning on the Mill
When turning on the mill there are three primary "light switch" style
switches which should be turned on. The first is on the back of the
black box labeled "MicroProto Systems, MicroMill DSLS 3000". This switch
is located on the back to the right side (imagine reaching around on the
rear right). Flipping the switch "up" should turn this on.
Next, turn on the main control to the spindle. This is achieved via the
light switch on the M3/M5 box. Turn this to the "on" position (flicking
it towards the label M3/M5).
Finally, turn on the spindle on the actual mill. This is in a blue
enameled box residing on the Z axis. Flip this switch "up". If the
spindle immediately starts spinning, this is because someone didn't send
the control command to stop it. This isn't a problem, but we will want
to stop it sooner than later. We will cover this in the next section.
To avoid unexpectedly turning on the spindle motor when powering on the
machine, wait to flip the power switch to the on position until after
EMC2 is running. This will ensure that the parallel port is in the
appropriate state according to the configuration file to keep all motors
off by default.
## Starting Mach3
This can be done by using the icon on the desktop.
## Spindle control and Emergency Stop
If the tooling is clear of all obstacles, you can press *F5* to toggle
the spindle motor on and off.
The switch on the right side of the mill, near the top will cut power to
the spindle. This is the best way to shut it down in an emergency... but
note that the axis can still move after the switch is thrown. Pressing
*Reset* in the interface will signal Mach3 to make an *Emergency Stop*.
You'll see the *Reset* button blink, and the status line at the bottom
will read "E-Stop Triggered, press reset...".
## Making our first motions
### Jog Controls
To start, we're going to use the "jog" functions to move the milling
cutter around and get a feel for what is "positive" and "negative" on
the X, Y, & Z axis.
Especially, when starting out, limit motion to the X and Y axis as this
has the least potential for damaging our tooling (aka, breaking a bit).
As you get a feel for what's positive and negative, we will start using
larger motions.
To start, hit the "tab" key to bring up the Jog controls. The main
settings on this panel are the *Jog mode*, which can be either
*continuous* or *step*. In continuous mode, holding down the motion keys
(described below) will make the axis move continuously, and quite a lot.
In step mode, pressing or holding the motion keys will move only a fixed
step per key-press. The step distance is also configurable on the Jog
control screen. You can hide the jog controls when not in use by
pressing the *Tab* key.
To start, select continuous mode in the jog controls and press the *Left
Arrow* and *Right Arrow*. Notice that the mill table moves left and
right. This is the X axis. Next, press the *Up arrow* and *Down Arrow*
keys briefly, notice that the mill table moves front to back. This is
the Y axis. Finally, press the *Page Up* and *Page Down* keys briefly;
notice that the spindle moves up and down. This is the Z axis. As you
were moving the milling cutter around, you'll notice that the
coordinates are displayed in the main window. This is where you can
quickly survey where your tooling is located.
### Obligatory Setup
Sometimes the *Reset* button in Mach3 will be flashing. This usually
means that you exceeded the movement limits or speed of the mill and the
controller has signaled Mach3 to stop. Often clicking reset is enough to
clear this error.
### Mill Controller Crash
Sometimes the controller will crash, this is usually evidenced by
*Reset* complaining that it cannot clear a limit. It will offer a button
that says "Fix this for me". "Fix this for me" actually redefines what
an error is in the software (e.g. if input low is defined as an error,
then it will redifine error as input high). Instead of clicking *Fix
this*, you should try turning off and on the mill controller using the
switch on the rear, lower-right side. Clicking *Reset* again should
clear the trouble.
### Advanced Manual Control - MDI (Manual Data Input)
Click on the MDI tab in the main Mach3 screen to the MDI Controls
section. Within this section (the line next to input) we can type in
actual G Code to move our tooling around. To start, we're going to use
simple "go to" commands. This will rapidly move the tool to the position
that we tell it to. Note, at any time, we can stop the execution of
these commands by hitting the "stop" button on the screen or typing
ALT-S on the keyboard. The first command we will use is "rapid go to" or
"g0". As an example: make sure the tooling is well clear of the table
using the jog controls and all axis are (roughly) centered. Reset all
axis (X, Y, Z) to zero using the *Zero Axis* button located to the left
of the current axis location. As you click zero axis, you should see the
axis change to -0.0000.
To make our first motion, let's move the X axis to position 0.5. To do
this, enter this command into the box marked *Input*:
` g0 x0.5`
The X axis should begin moving and it should stop 0.5" to the right of
it's initial position.
Additionally, we can give multiple coordinates at once. Now try the
command:
` g0 x0 y0`
This should send our tool back to the starting position. This can make
things go much, much faster for resetting back to the position that you
started with the mill at.
To have more fine grained control we can use the command "g1". There is
nothing that G0 does which G1 cannot. The only difference in syntax is
that we specify the feed rate of the motion as the first option. By
default the mill is set to operate in inches per minute. Thus, unless
you change this (via g code) it should be assumed that this will be the
unit of measure for your commands.
Lets slowly raise our Z axis up one inch:
` g1 f2 z1`
Note, since we were at a position approx 1 inch up and told the mill to
return to zero at a rate of F2 or 2 inches per minute, it will take
approximately 30 seconds for this command to complete. Slow movement of
the tool (especially when 'plunging' the z axis is a good idea as it
allows for time to hit the "esc" key if things start going horribly
wrong).
Now, let's build on some of these together:
` g1 f10 x1 y1 z1`
Whoops, back to zero:
` g1 f5 x0 y0 z0`
When moving back to zero you will see that the mill is moving half of
the original speed (5 inches per minute rather than 10 inches per
minute).
Let's really open this thing up and see what it can do. While watching
this command move notice the *feed rate* indicator in the preview MDI
tab. This will allow you to see the actual speed of the tool.
` g1 f50 x1 y1 z1`
Linear motion is great and all, but how about we dwell outside the
euclidean space for a minute. The next commands that we are going to
learn are G2/G3. G2 will make a clockwise arc while G3 will make a
counterclockwise arc. The command syntax is as follows:
`*G2 - Command`
`*Fx - Feedrate at X inches per minute`
`*Xv - Destination X coordinate (in this case end at v)`
`*Yw - Destination Y coordinate (in this case end at w)`
`*Ix - X axis center point offset`
`*Jy - Y axis center point offset`
`*Za - Interpolated Z axis coordinate (optional)`
To start, lets make a circle:
` g2 f5 x1 y0 i-0.5 j0`
Annnnd we fail. This is because we've given junk data to the mill. Lets
try that again making a circle. Of course, to make a circle, we will
want our beginning (1,1,1) to be the same as our destination (1,1,1)
only changing the X axis center point offset.
` g2 f5 x1 y1 i-0.5 j0`
Fun math bits... run that command again and note the "distance to go" or
"DTG" in the preview area. Note the distance at the immediate start of
plotting our 1 inch diameter circle (2 \* 0.5 X offset). This should be
a predictable [result](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pi)
# Tool Changing
Use a wrench to gently remove the chuck. Check the toolbox beneath the
mill for different bits and other things as required.
Little force should be required to tighten the chuck; it has been said
that finger-tight is often sufficient.
# When you're done
Please cleanup the mill area and place tooling back into the mill
toolbox under the bench.
Finally, turn off all three power switches noted above.
Thanks
# Caution
Please avoid doing these things, unless you can deal with the
consequences yourself.
- Don't run the mill too far off axis. The stepper motors will usually
make a harsh grinding sound when this happens.
- Don't leave the mill completely unattended. Be prepared to hit the
*Reset* key within at most a minute of hearing something go wrong.
- Obviously, don't put your hands in hazardous places.
Otherwise, the mill is robust and newbie friendly.
[Category:CNC_Mill](Category:CNC_Mill "wikilink")

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When something goes wrong, its nice to note it here. Also nice to note
any fixes (eg. resurfacing the milling platform).
## 2 May. 2013
Maximum X-Axis feed rate of 60in/min was moderately error prone,
occasionally triggering emergency stop. Reduced to 40in/min, identical
to Y-Axis setting. [mirage335 2013-05-02](User:mirage335 "wikilink")
## 2 Feb. 2013
Settings on Mach3 were incorrect; communication with the mill controller
was impossible. The following settings changes were made (and some
fiddling done) and the mill appears to be functioning and calibrated
well:
- Changing the port to address 0x378 allowed the spindle control to
function.
- Changing X,Y,Z,A drive and step ports to port 1 (0x378) and setting
low trigger on axis X.
- Recalibrated "steps per" with the calibration wizard under *settings*
using dial indicator (now set for ~16250).
Note: Often restarting Mach3 seems to be required to actually update
some of the port settings (although it pretends otherwise). Mill
calibration was accurate to only ~0.003" (which maybe a limit imposed by
the limited rigidity of the mill+stand).
[Shawn Nock (OpenPGP: 0x65118FA5)](User:Nock "wikilink") 12:47, 3
February 2013 (PST)
## 22 Jan. 2013
- Major upgrades in progress thanks to TJ.
## 10 July 2012
- Platform still needs replacing, but Barlow resurfaced the remaining
usable area. At least now it is level again.
## 28 Apr. 2012
- Someone accidentally resurfaced the milling platform (milled too
deep). Now the platform needs replacing.
## 11 Apr. 2012
- Milling platform is no longer level, thanks to the screws holding it
down being loosened up. Needs resurfacing.
[Category:CNC_Mill](Category:CNC_Mill "wikilink")

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# Bits
## PCB Isolation Routing
- [\<0.01" End Mill (PCB
Cutter)](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083KMIYA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn)
## PCB Drill/Milling
- [23mil diameter End Mill, suitable for milldrilling
holes](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4A8X2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn)
- [47mil diameter End Mill, suitable for outline
cutting](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N48TY2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn)
- [63mil diameter End Mill, perhaps more robust for outline
cutting](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4A56M/ref=biss_dp_t_asn)
- \[<http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Carbide-Drill-Bits-Variety-Set-M-CNC-PCB-Sharp-/160599294802>?
Drill bit variety from ~6mil to ~38mil cutting diameter.\]
# Stock
- [Single Sided Copper Clad
Board](http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B000P7ALZC)
- [Medium Density
Fiberboard](http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-4-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Medium-Density-Fiberboard-1508112/202089064#.UpYUqqqYgrQ)
- [Excellent practice material, easy on bits, and quickly laser cut into
standard-size
blocks.](http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-InsulPink-1-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-8-ft-R-7-5-Furring-Lap-Insulation-Board-43WD/100320293)
# References
- [Amazon End Mil
directory.](http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/other/ref=sr_sa_p_cutting_diameter-v?rh=n%3A16310091%2Cn%3A383598011%2Cn%3A5825198011%2Cn%3A256305011%2Ck%3Aendmill&keywords=endmill&pickerToList=cutting_diameter-vebin&ie=UTF8&qid=1399306727)
- [Variety of End Mills with varying
specs.](http://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Cutter-59821-Finishing-Non-Center/dp/B00A0PDPSO/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1399306756&sr=1-1&keywords=endmill)
[Category:CNC_Mill](Category:CNC_Mill "wikilink")
[Category:PA_SUPPLIES](Category:PA_SUPPLIES "wikilink")

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Tabletop computer terms - move over means to use the touch pad to move
the arrow on the display to the described position click on means to
move the arrow to the described position & then press either click
button type means to type what is described type: means to type the
characters that follow the space after : enter means to type what is
described (if anything) & then press the Enter key (at right) enter:
means to type the characters that follow the space after : & then press
Enter insLaserK40 Instructions for the K40 laser cutter (cheap Chinese
laser cutter) - Nov. 1, 2019 1. Make sure the laser cutter POWER switch
(top panel) is in the OFF position (bottom side down) 2. Make sure the
SAFETIES switch on the laser cutter is in the ON position 3. Make sure
the float switch with 2 ping-pong balls in it is in the bucket in the
cabinet under the laser cutter 4. Make sure the pump is in the bucket 5.
Make sure the end of the 2nd plastic tube (drain line from laser tube)
is in the bucket 6. If water in the bucket does not push the ping-pong
balls up so they close the switch at the top of the float switch add
water until they do (note that the switch is finicky & it may later be
necessary to jiggle the ping-pong balls to get the switch to close) 7.
Make sure the pump is plugged into the power strip at the top right in
the cabinet 8. Make sure the exhaust fan is plugged into the power strip
9. Make sure the computer is plugged into the power strip 10. Make sure
the power cord for the laser cutter (coming down into the right rear of
the cabinet) is plugged into the power strip 11. Make sure the other end
of the power cord is plugged into the back (right side) of the laser
cutter 12. Plug (an extension cord is needed) the white power cord
coming out of the top of the cabinet under the laser cutter into the
long power strip to right of the KILL SWITCH ULTIMAKER WORKBENCH LASER
CUTTER sign 13. Switch on the power strip to right of the KILL SWITCH
sign 14. Switch on the power strip in the cabinet under the laser cutter
15. Make sure the exhaust fan is running 16. Lift the 2nd plastic tube
slightly out of the bucket, make sure water is flowing out of it, &
replace it 17. Place the material to be cut in the laser cutter 18.
Switch the laser cutter POWER switch ON 19. For manual operation set the
CONTROL switch to MANUAL 20. Turn the LASER CURRENT knob all the way
counterclockwise (off) 21. Push the LASER switch to the FIRE position
(it will only fire as long as it is held there) 22. Turn the LASER
CURRENT knob clockwise until the LASER CURRENT meter reaches the correct
level (maximum is about 15mA) 23. When finished turn the LASER CURRENT
knob all the way counterclockwise 24. Turn the POWER switch OFF 25. Turn
off the power strip under the laser cutter 26. Unplug the extension cord
from the power strip to right of the KILL SWITCH sign insLaserK40maint
To adjust the stationary mirrors - Oct. 8, 2019 1. If moving part of the
mirror forward loosen the nuts on the bolts on the back of the mount 2.
Loosen the bolt on the side of the mount that part of the mirror is to
be moved towards 3. Turn the bolt on the opposite side clockwise to move
part of the mirror in the desired direction 4. Repeat steps 1-3 if
needed 5. Tighten the bolts on the side the mirror was moved towards 6.
Tighten the other bolts 7. Tighten the nuts on the bolts on the back To
control the Smoothieboard directly from a tabletop computer using
minicom (minicom should already be installed; if after step 7 the
display states bash: minicom: command not found see
wiki.hacdc.org/index.php/Documentation-Tabletop_computers for
instructions) - Dec. 26, 2019 1. Unplug the laser cutter computer USB
cable from the back of the Smoothieboard 2. Connect another USB cable
from the tabletop computer to the connector in the back of the
Smoothieboard 3. Turn on the computer & log in (see
Documentation-Tabletop_computers for detailed instructions) 4. Click on
Applications at top left 5. Move over System Tools 6. Click on MATE
Terminal in window that just appeared 7. Enter: minicom 8. To show
instructions for controlling the Smoothieboard enter: help 9. When
finished disconnect the tabletop computer USB cable from the
Smoothieboard 10. Reconnect the USB cable from the laser cutter computer
to the Smoothieboard To control the Smoothieboard directly from a
tabletop computer using screen - Dec. 26, 2019 1. Unplug the laser
cutter computer USB cable from the back of the Smoothieboard 2. Connect
another USB cable from the tabletop computer to the connector in the
back of the Smoothieboard 3. Turn on the computer & log in (see
Documentation-Tabletop_computer for detailed instructions) 4. Click on
Applications at top left 5. Move over System Tools 6. Click on MATE
Terminal in window that just appeared 7. Enter: screen /dev/ttyACM0 8.
If the display does not state bash: screen: command not found then skip
steps 9-12 9. Enter: sudo apt install screen 10. If the display shows
\[sudo\] password for hacdc: then enter standard password 11. If the
display asks Do you want to continue? \[Y/n\]: then enter: y 12. Enter:
screen /dev/ttyACM0 13. For instructions type Ctrl a? (hold down Ctrl &
press a, then release both before typing ? (note that characters entered
after Ctrl a will not appear on the display)) 14. To show instructions
for controlling the Smoothieboard enter: help 15. When finished
disconnect the Smoothieboard from the tabletop computer USB cable 16.
Reconnect the USB cable from the laser cutter computer to the
Smoothieboard insLaserK40spec Specifications - K40 power supply - Oct.
8, 2019 The power supply for the K40 (cheap Chinese laser cutter) is a
"4-6-4" type with a 6-terminal connector in the center with a 4-terminal
connector on both sides. L1=G - ground (typically connected to negative
terminal of laser tube, in this case thru a current meter (laser current
on front panel)) L2=G L3=AC - one side of 120VAC power L4=AC - other
side of 120VAC power C1=G C2=P - enable - ground to allow laser to fire
C3=L - laser - ground to fire laser C4=G C5=IN - intensity - analog
laser power control (i.e., in manual mode) C6=5V R1=24V R2=G R3=5V
R4=L - laser - ground to fire laser Note that C3 & R4 are connected on
the power supply PC board as are C6 & R3. The laser power can be
controlled using L by PWM. Note: Diode D15 has been disconnected because
it was leaky; it was only used for an on-board TEST button which is
never used so there is no particular reason to replace it.

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[Cheap Chinese Laser](Cheap_Chinese_Laser "wikilink") This is the page
dealing with the cheap Chinese laser at HacDC in the upstairs room at
St. Stephen and the Incarnate church in Washington, DC.

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[K40 Exhaust Assembly](K40_Exhaust_Assembly "wikilink")
We've created an exhaust assembly to provide a modular, modifiable
platform to vent gases from the awkward rectangular cut-outs in the back
of our Ebay K40 laser.
## External Repository
All of these parts should be up on
[<http://kalli1.faikvm.com/HacDC/CheapLaserCutter>](http://kalli1.faikvm.com/HacDC/CheapLaserCutter),
(just kidding though, currently they're not!! -Tom 4/17/17). Feel free
to
`   git clone`
and print. ImplicitCAD code provided is GPL licensed.
## Screwhole Adapters
This is helpful, even if you think it's not.
<figure>
<embed src="Screwhole_adapter.stl" title="File:Screwhole_adapter.stl" />
<figcaption><a
href="File:Screwhole_adapter.stl">File:Screwhole_adapter.stl</a></figcaption>
</figure>
## Exhaust Nacelle
The latest iteration as of 4/17/17 --
<figure>
<embed src="Square_vent_adapter.stl"
title="File:Square_vent_adapter.stl" />
<figcaption><a
href="File:Square_vent_adapter.stl">File:Square_vent_adapter.stl</a></figcaption>
</figure>
## Exhaust Nozzle
James has a better version of this, but you'll likely want to make your
own or modify the source code than use the raw stl of a rather chunky
model below--
[Exhaust nozzle](Exhaust_nozzle "wikilink")
<figure>
<embed src="round_hose_adapter.stl"
title="File:round_hose_adapter.stl" />
<figcaption><a
href="File:round_hose_adapter.stl">File:round_hose_adapter.stl</a></figcaption>
</figure>
## Exhaust Flow Switch
Flap disk air flow switch to ensure exhaust is running when laser is
operating--
[Air flow switch holder](Air_flow_switch_holder "wikilink")
[Category:Equipment](Category:Equipment "wikilink")
[Category:Laser](Category:Laser "wikilink")
[Category:CheapChineseLaser](Category:CheapChineseLaser "wikilink")